If you treat your bodhran like a person, you can't go wrong. It's simply a matter of respect. You like to be massaged with oils and cremes, your skin dries out and needs to be treated carefully sometimes. You don't like to be overly hot or dry, you like to be clean and cared for, you prefer to be treated special, and you work and play better when you are. The same things can be said of your bodhran. The following are my personal tips & tricks for getting the most out of, and extending the life of your bodhran. I use these methods on my drums every day and can vouch for my results with them. If you have different experiences or some tricks of your own to share, drop me a line (see bottom of page) and I'll put up anything that makes sense to the care of a bodhran.

Product Reviews Watering Heating The Guinness Myth	Skin Treatment Frame treatment Cases Strapping On	Storage Travel Decoration On Tippers

Watering

Most anywhere you live you WILL need to water your drum in order to play it. Watering your drum before play serves a couple of purposes. The first being to prevent your skin from tearing when played (let's remember we ARE hitting the thing after all), ripping itself, or pulling itself away from the frame due to shrinkage. As a goat skin (or any other type of skin) dries out, it shrinks, becomes brittle and easy to rip all at the same time. By treating the skin a few times a year (see: skin treatment) we add some flexibility and suppleness to our drum head. But even the best skin treatments won't save a drum that isn't watered regularly and properly. The second function of watering your drum is that it creates a 'warm', 'round' and somewhat 'flat' sound that is characteristic of bodhrans. Be careful though, an overwatered skin will give almost NO sound at all, and no one likes a floppy skin.

Watering is an imprecise art to say the least, but there are ways to minimize problems. One option is to play an adjustable bodhran. They have tuning clamps and a wrench, like a snare drum, which allow one to change the pitch and tone of the drum by tightening and loosening the ring. You could also try playing a fibreskin or composite headed bodhran. These drums require NO water at all (they ARE plastic after all). In fact, water doesn't affect them in any way, heck I've played them at renaissance faires in the rain!!

When you are watering your drum there are some things to remember. The first thing is to not overdo it. Most heads absorb water kind of slowly, so water them sparingly (it's easier to add more than to take some back). Give your head a minute or two to soak it all up. Also, if your skin is properly treated (see: skin treatment) you should only need to pour water into the center of your head (about a tablespoon should do it), and then rub that into (GENTLY!!) the whole head. You should stop spreading the water about 1/2 an inch from where the skin touches the frame.

Another way to go, is to carry a small 'spritz' or spray bottle (most grocery stores carry them empty for about a dollar). By spraying a gentle mist into the back of your drum you'll get better distribution of water. Just a couple of squirts will usualy do the trick. Personally, I am a devotee of the MISTO, check it out, it is THE best way I've found to water a drum (Thanks to Ken Larson for turning me on to them). After spraying, just gently massage the water in, like I said above. A different method is to dip your hand into a bowl, or glass of water and then rub it into the back of the skin. This method is best for wetting part of the skin, as opposed to the whole thing.
I personally recommend only using water to 'water' your bodhran (contrary to what some will say, see: The Great Guinness myth). Bottled water (Yes I said bottled, treat your drum like a person, and most people prefer bottled water.) is best, but tap will do in a pinch.

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Heating

In very humid weather, or if you've over-watered your bodhran it may be necesarry to HEAT the skin of your drum in order to play it. This is a dangerous prospect, I know, but if your careful and use common sense it can be done safely.

One of the safest ways to heat your bodhran head is to purchase 'hand warmers' (available at most army surplus or outdoor stores). These are small foil pouches that heat up when they are 'broken' (crushed up a bit). They quickly heat up, but not so much as to burn anything. They are reusable (toss one in the microwave for a couple of minutes, or boil it to 'recharge' them) and transport very easily. All one need do is activate the 'handwarmer' and gently rub it along the back of your drum head. Just as water causes the drum head to relax and loosen, heat will cause it to tighten up a bit, and you can keep heating it until it sounds the way you'd like.

If this choice isn't for you, there are alternatives. You could buy a cordless hair-dryer. I have never seen one of these, but I'm told they work well, and can be purchased through gadget stores like "The Sharper Image". If they exist, they could be a very handy tool for natural skin drum players. They would be quite portable, and simple to use. Just turn the dryer on, and blow dry your way to a tighter bodhran head.

It may be necessary from time to time to heat your head by an open flame, a stove top, or even an exposed high watt light bulb. If this is the case, BE CAREFUL!! Place your hand inside the back of the drum, then hold the drum 'face up' over the heat source. Keep the drum moving at all times, to evenly distribute the heat. The hotter your hand gets, the hotter your drum head is getting, if you need to remove your hand, you need to remove the drum.

Heating or watering is something that you get a feel for as you play longer, and get to know your drum. Personally I have become fond of using a Chef's Cooking Torch, Mine is by BonJour. It is a small butane torch used to Carmelize sugar and cheese in cooking. Again thanks to Ken Larson for turning me onto this method. Though I HAVE downscaled from Ken's version, which is a hand held propane cutting torch!!

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The Great Guinness Myth

The Great Guinness Myth is an old one, and one that people don't want to change their minds about. I have heard for years that wetting your drum head with Guinness is a good thing. That it gives the drum the needed moisture and adds a tan color to the drum head, and gives the drum a 'mellow' or 'low' tone. And lastly, since it's an Irish drum, it'll appreciate a 'drink' o' the stout. This is all a bunch o' blarney......

The only thing that Guinness (as much as I love the stuff) will do to your drum head is shorten it's life span. Guinness, as with most alchohols, is largely sugar. Sugar when rubbed into skin, clogs pores, and crystalizes in them. This will ultimately cause your skin to become extremely brittle, and you'll put your tipper right through it.

The drum may play well for a while, but as the sugars gather and harden, you'll notice a change in your drum, by that time it's too late. So for the sake of your bodhran, and your wallet (goatskin and skin replacement is pricey!!) use ONLY water to wet your bodhran head (see:Watering) Save the black stuff for yourself!!

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Skin Treatment

By 'Skin Treatment' I mean, a substance applied to your drum head to maintain it's suppleness, and flexibility. Opinions vary on the best treatment out there. For instance, Dubbin is very popular. Dubbin is primarily a waterproofing agent sold at soccer supply stores. Vegetable or Olive oil have been used by some in the past, so has Corn Huskers lotion, and even hand creme. All of these work, and many people have been quite satisfied with the results. But for my money (about $2 a tube) the best on the market is anhydrous lanolin. I get it from the local pharmacist (which is handy since I don't live near any sheep farms). I have found that a few dabs applied on the OUTSIDE of the drum head and then rubbed in about four times a years does wonders for the head!!

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Frame Care

An area of drum care that is almost always forgotten is Frame Care. Proper frame care includes things like making sure you don't let water sit and soak into the space where the head meets your frame. This will cause frame rot and drastically shorten you drums lifespan. Don't be afraid to use a fine grit sandpaper to (carefully) remove residual lacquer/sealer from a thin spot in the finish, and aplpy a new coat or two to better protect the wood of your frame. Also it is important to keep an eye out for cracks in the frame and bubbles in the laquer as your frame ages. A regular treatment with Endust is helpful as well.



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Cases

Your case is invaluable to the long life of your drum. Your case needs are determined by your playing habits. For instance I have a couple of cases. One is for regular carrying and storage: A black denim bag w/ Velcro closure, and plywood sides. I keep a guitar humidifier in the case at all times to maintain humidity. I also use a bowling ball bag for my 12"x6" Metloef bodhran ;)

I also have an older looking bag that I carry at the ren. faire, it is heavy woven wool w/ extra padded sides and a tied flap. I also carry a guitar humidifier in this one (especially since I'm outside all day with this one).

I've heard GREAT things about "Anvil Cases", yep that's the name of the company (Anvil Case Co.). They custom build cases for any and all instruments. It is a big, heavy black and silver square, with dense foam padding inside. They seal airtight, and retain moisture wonderfully. These are mini vaults! You can drop your drum from a car (but why would you?) in one of these and fear no damage!! They cost significantly more that the average case, but if your serious about your investment in your drum, they are worth every penny (and then some). The bottom line is buy a case that is appropriate for your needs and your budget. But make sure that it provides as much protection for you drum as possible. Check out these case companies to find some of the best soft and hard side cases.

Colorado Case Co.
Blue Haron Cases
Anvil Cases

More will follow on this topic later (e-mail me if you need answers NOW!!).

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Strapping On

If attached at the 12 & 6 o'clock positions and about dead center of the DEPTH of your frame (See diagram) it provides a very simple way to play as though you were seated while standing, running, dancing, jumping up and down, etc....



I've drilled (small) holes into the frames of 4 of my bodhrans over the last few years and have never, ever noticed any change of any kind in the sound created by the drum. I did it first on my MacDaid (r.i.p. Robert), which I simply drilled through the center of where the cross piece had been before I removed it. A method I recommend for any drum you wish to strap up that uses a cross piece.

Holes effecting the sound of a drum is pretty much in the domain of a "trapped air" drum, like an Djembe or Ashiko, that relies on the trapping of air to create it's depth of tone. Introducing holes that aren't then filled by a screw or plug of some kind can destroy their rich bass sound. Some of Rob Forkner's double ended (Gemini) drums could be affected by adding unplugged holes to the equation. But open ended frame drums do not have this same reliance on trapped air to generate bass.

I highly recommend padding the guitar strap pegs you install, with felt as to prevent scratching the finish around the VERY small hole you are creating. Also, use a slightly longer screw than you might need. You can back the excess of the screw with a simple cut piece of dowel rod of greater diameter than the screw in question.

When properly installed and worn, the guitar strap will go from the top of the drum (12 o’clock), over your “back hand” shoulder, across your back, under your dominant (tipper) arm, across the stomach and attach to the bottom (6 o’clock) of the drum. (See diagram below)



When and if you decide to remove your strap pegs, you can fill in the holes you've created by mixing a little fine powder saw dust and wood glue, filling said hole and stain matching once dry. This is the way we used to patch holes in didgeridoos (which need to be air tight down the length in order to create their tone). I've done it a few times and it works really well.

Feel free to EMAIL ME with any additional questions you might have about straps and bodhrans.

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Storage

Where is your bodhran being stored, and for how long? These are a couple of the more important questions to ask yourself when storing your drum. I have employed many methods in the past, the most successful method so far was....

GET THEE TO A MUSIC SHOP!!! And get a guitar humidifier, they run about $2-$5 apiece (it's a little, fat plastic cylinder with a couple of holes in it. The inside is filled with a super dense clay that absorbs moisture and releases it slowely over time). Carry one in your case at all times to regulate humidity inside the case, it rides very well in the back of your drum . It rattles around a little, but has no sharp corners or anything to damage the head. If your storing your drum long term (any longer than about 2 weeks), open the humidifier and submerge the whole thing (casing and all) in water, leave it for several minutes (so the clay inside gets good and soaked), then take it out of the water, close the top, and shake it until water stops coming out. Then wet your drum head and place the humidifier inside the back of the drum. Place the whole thing inside a good, plastic garbage bag and tie the tightest knot you can in the bag (the idea is to seal it). Put the whole shabang in your case (or storage box or whatever) and store the bag in a closet or someplace out of the way. This will create a great amount of condensation as the water leaves the clay as humidity, and keep the drum nicely moist for about 2 months. If you need to store it longer, open it up, cut the bag off, and start the process again.

WARNING!!!!! THE ABOVE MENTIONED METHOD CREATES A GREAT DEAL OF HUMIDITY AND CONDENSATION INSIDE THE BAG. IF YOUR DRUM FRAME IS NOT PROPERLLY SEALED/LACQUERED IT MAY CAUSE FRAME ROT, WHICH WILL COMPROMISE THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF YOUR DRUM FRAME. O.A.D.D. AND IT'S REPRESENTATIVES TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE CAUSED BY YOUR FAILURE TO MAKE CERTAIN YOUR FRAME IS PROPERLY SEALED FROM MOISTURE. THE ABOVE MENTIONED METHOD HAS WORKED WELL FOR US AND CAN FOR YOU TOO, BUT YOU MUST TAKE CARE TO SEAL/WATERPROOF YOUR FRAME!!!!

Many people, myself included, have pretty drums that they like to display rather than store in cases. Hanging your drum on the wall is a popular method of doing this, and a good way to show off skin/frame art. It's easy to take care of your drum in this case, regardless of temperature or humidity in the room. Just place your handy-dandy humidifier in the back of the drum while it hangs. As the water leaves the clay as humidity it goes directly to the skin and will be trapped behind the drum. As your drum is exposed you will need to re-wet the humidifier about twice a month (depending on room humidity, etc...). Don't forget to use your head (the one on top of your neck) when choosing a place in the room to hang your drum. Keep it out of direct sunlight and away from vents and direct fan path... More will follow on the topic of storage later (e-mail me if you need answers NOW!!).

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Traveling

Bodhrans are very tempermental, and like to travel with you (i.e. not in the trunk of the car or in the baggage compartment) and well they should. Not only can elevated temperatures (like inside a closed car) cause your drumhead to >>POP<< But if your frame isn't one of the hard laquered models, it can cause the frame itself to expand and break. This is not restricted to cars either!

I'll share a personal story with you: I was living in Arizona, in a small attic apartment without air conditioning, in the summer. I had recently had a bodhran re-headed, and the skin was thick and great! The trouble was, I had no case for said drum, and wasn't thinking when I brought it home from picking it up (at a gig). I left it on the couch and went to bed, only to be woken up by a loud >>CRACK<< at about 10 the next morning. Yep, you guessed it, the skin was so thick and good, and was attatched so well, that it ripped the frame itself almost in half when it got hot and shrunk! No joke, no kidding, no exaggeration! Now granted, that was an un air conditioned apartment in the desert in the summer, but the temperature wasn't more than 100 degrees and the inside of a car can reach that in under 15 minutes in direct sunlight!

Literally, treat your drum like you would a child, keep it in mild climates (even if you must create said climate), keep it's skin soft, and it's body (frame) clean, give it a proper place to sleep (i.e. humidified case), and it will last you for a good long time.

I'll be tackeling airline travel in the near future, so check back soon! More will follow on this topic later (e-mail me if you need answers NOW

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Decorating

We all like pretty things, and drums are no different. Many people like to paint the heads and frames of their drums, the trouble here can be in using the wrong type of paints to decorate your head. Paint, for the most part, dries the surface it is applied to as it dries. This is almost certain death in the case of drum heads, not good! There ARE a couple of solutions to this problem. The best answer I have found is using Dye rather than paint, you can find leather dyes in a rainbow of colors at most craft stores, they aren't overly expensive and they go a long way. I usually draw my design onto the drum head with a soft lead pencil, and then simply brush on the dyes I want to use. When using this method the drum head needs to be flat (laying down flat on a table or floor) as leather dye is thin and tends to run, so use it sparingly. One of the advantages to using dye rather than paint, is that dye will soak into your drum head, and hold longer, even when played on.

More will follow on this topic later (e-mail me if you need answers NOW!!).

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On Tippers

(For the purposes of this conversation we will assume that “YOU” means the reader, and that you are using the most common global grip, the Kerry grip: tipper held at the middle of the stick by the thumb and first two fingers of the dominant hand)

Tipper choice is a very individual thing. It seems MOST players have one “full time” tipper that they know and love, and then they may or may not have a group of “special effect” or “trick” tippers to help vary their sound.

Let’s talk about the “full time” or “default” tipper. Bodhran is to Violin as Tipper is to Bow. Often times really high end violins (in the thousands of dollars) cost less than their highly crafted bows. Luckily we, as bodhranai don’t have to pay such exorbitant prices for our instruments and gear.

This is the most reliable tool in your box, the weapon that does not fail. With this stick in hand you can play any surface as though it were a precision crafted instrument. Choice of “Main” tipper is generally based on 3 key things:

1) Length
2) Weight
3) Tip (ends size & shape)

1) Length: The length of a tipper will help determine how much movement is required on the part of the players wrist to achieve the sound that player wants. The trick is to find the length that provides the sound you want and the ease (comfort) of play that your body requires.

Ultimately what you are looking for is a length that requires the smallest amount of movement in your wrist and forearm. A more limited range of required motion will help stave off repetitive movement issues (i.e. carpel tunnel)

RULE OF THUMB: Longer = LESS work for the wrist, Shorter = MORE work for the wrist.

(Note: for Top End players out there who are getting sticks to be used in that style, off center, the general consensus I have found among players is that anywhere from 7 - 12 " is about the average.)

2) Weight: The materials from which the tippers are made will help determine its weight (i.e. denser woods or plastics are heavier). The shape of the tipper will also help determine the distribution of weight. Remember that playing the bodhran is unlike other drums in that is something of a momentum based striking action (swinging rather than striking directly), so weight distribution will affect the ease of play.

RULE OF THUMB: Lighter = Less work for the wrist, Heavier = MORE Work for the wrist.

3) Tips: The size and shape of the ends of your tipper go a LONG way towards determining the sound it will produce when striking the drum. Not only will larger ends effect the distribution of weight in a tipper, but larger ends mean more surface contact with the skin of the drum and will produce more “scrape” or “drag” as you play.

Larger ends (i.e. heavier at the ends) means more weight in motion, which means it will require more hand strength to start, stop and control. More surface contact will also produce a muddier less precise tonal quality from the strike.

Narrower tips, as can be seen in the extreme in a ”straight stick” (uniform shape from end to end, no flare or swell at the ends) create a much more precise and clear tone to beat ratio and have a crisp, sharp sound. Narrower ends also mean less work for the muscles as there is less weight to be kept in motion when playing.

RULE OF THUMB: Knobbier = heavier, scratchier, muddier. Straighter = faster, cleaner, more precise, better control.

That is as far as I have gotten with this so far, but please feel free to EMAIL ME with any questions you have.

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